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 Scituate, Mass: A hidden New England travel gem by the sea

by Eric H.

Scituate, Mass., has no row of inns, motels, hotels, bed and breakfasts or guest houses lined up against the sea. This is quite odd, as the appealing South Shore seaside community looks every bit as nice as any quaint Cape Cod village where lodging choices seemingly extend right into the Atlantic Ocean.

Scituate doesn't bill itself as a resort community, so there are few lodging choices to make this a place to vacation -- unless you own an expensive summer home, sleep in the back of your car, or beg a Scituate homeowner to let you use their sixth bedroom.

Scituate is primarily a highly desirable suburb of Boston. The town center is lined with independently owned specialty shops with the harbor peaking behind the commercial district. Recreational opportunities abound here including swimming, boating and fishing. Scituate Lighthouse provides a rocky, scenic setting making it one of Massachusetts' more appealing lighthouses. The harbor is pure New England with a relaxing, picturesque view that ranks up there as one of the best scenic views in the region.

Sunsets in Scituate Harbor hold a special place in a New Englander's heart. The way the light reflects on the water offers residents and visitors one of those great moments that will always be remembered -- a feeling of tranquility and romance. Not every night affords these sunsets due to the unpredictable New England weather, but when it happens the moment is one to treasure.

Why Scituate hasn't bowed to blatant tourism is a testament to its commitment to excellence in making the town of 18,000 a great place to live. The school system is terrific and the neighborhoods chock full of seaside and colonial New England character. This does a tourist absolutely no good if it is lodging they want. For those who want to spend a day in Scituate, however, there are few better places that represent the Massachusetts scenic seaside better. It is a great New England summer vacation stop, if only for a day.

A great way to enjoy the day in Scituate is finding a spot by the ocean, listening to the ocean, seagulls,and whir of the boats, doing a little shopping, and then finding a nice place to eat. Dining choices abound, with the top choices being the Barker Tavern and Mill Wharf Restaurant (150 Front St., Tel. (781) 545-3999). The Barker Tavern is simply one of the best restaurants in New England. Overlooking the harbor, the Barker Tavern's cozy, colonial atmosphere provides the perfect setting for extremely well- prepared food. We recommend starting out with the heavenly New England clam chowder and a fresh mixed greens salad. For the main course, the fresh broiled swordfish has a legendary following, and rightfully so -- tasty and tender does not even begin to describe this incredible dish. The crisp roasted Long Island duckling in port wine orange sauce over a bed of wild rice is an instant food Hall of Fame choice, as well as the pungently delightful roast rack of lamb with a rosemary and garlic crust. We finished with a chocolate cake, complements of the chef, because my wife was expecting our first child. Wonderful people, incredible atmosphere and unsurpassed food makes this our current top choice in New England.

The Mill Wharf Pub and Restaurant offers one of the best harbor views we've experienced at a New England restaurant and seafood that is about as good as its gets in New England The lobster stew is undeniably top-notch, a savory mix of abundant lobster chunks and a splendid cream base. The broiled scallops are perfectly prepared and a recent special, the shrimp risotto with an Asian sauce, validated the chef's ambitious and intuitive nature -- a dish that wanted you coming back for more. Of course, there's lobster, cod, and haddock -- all expertly prepared. The atmosphere at night, with its large dimly lit dining room with great hardwood floors and the lovely Scituate Harbor sunsets, make for one of the grandest overall dining experiences in the northeast.

Since lodging is not an option in Scituate, it is best experienced as a day trip to ideally complement a vacation in Plymouth or the great City of Boston, both 25 miles away. Plymouth is a large seaside community five miles from the Cape Cod Canal with a rich heritage -- the home of the 1620 Pilgrim settlement that is currently best exemplified by the tourist-oriented Plimoth Plantation.The town also has great ocean beaches, fine restaurants and enough lodging for your "pilgrimage" to this bustling but yet relaxing community. Boston is know as the "Hub of the Universe" and with good reason: from the European leanings of Newbury Street to the festive shops and restaurants at Fanueil Hall, Boston is truly the "Hub of the Universe." With over 40 academic institutions, the magnificent Boston Common with masterful flower gardens, fine harbor views, world class restaurants, the Italian-flavored North End, some fascinating museums, the historic Freedom Trail, and a compact layout tailor made for walking, Boston deserves an extended visit.

Ultimately, the absence of a row of lodging choices in Scituate might be a great blessing. There is an unspoiled feel to the town that has one hoping that Scituate will never change. It is "old" New England that may have a few trendy dowtown shops, but that is about the extent of Scituate being an upscale summer tourist destination. Scituate is a "real" community, waiting to be discovered for those in search of the best New England has to offer.

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