by Eric Hurwitz. Article updated on 11/01/16What ever happened to the good old-fashioned, hearty
sandwich made by a local deli or cafe?
Tasty, gigantic sandwiches that pleased virtually everyone in past
times has often given way to weird, pretentious combinations with hefty
price tags, bland pizza house style subs with mediocre food sourcing,
and chains with clever marketing trumping the final product.
We didn't think about it way back then, but the local sandwich maker
focused on the art and science of sandwich making. The art focused on
the sandwich maker's pride in putting one's own signature stamp on the
sandwich, and the science of identifying the best food sources and
knowing how to turn it into something special. He or she made the
sandwich for the customer's satisfaction, and never for the sandwich
maker's ego.
Suburban Boston has a handful of sandwich shops that do things the
right way. Michael's Sunburst Deli and Cafe in Wrentham, Mass., in
particular, stands as one of the last great, old fashioned sandwich
shops we've experienced in eastern Massachusetts. The sandwiches are
huge, full of flavor, and served with genuine admiration for the
customer. The bright, sunny, cheerful storefront with big picture
windows and a pleasant small dining area lends a welcoming feel that
owner Michael Lewicki and his sister Kathleen Bailey embrace with great
pride.
In business since
1993, Michael's Sunburst Deli and Cafe has expanded upon its initial
base of Boar's Head meats and New England Roasters Coffee -- with
flatbreads, homemade dinners, an excellent variety of fresh salads and
an expanding catering business. While Michael's pretty much hits a home
run with virtually everything they create and serve, it is the sandwich
that is still paramount to many customers.
Michael's turkey sandwich goes to the next level with Joe's
Thanksgiving -- a heaping portion of Boar's Head Turkey with
wonderfully flavorful stuffing and homestyle cranberry sauce. Hot
pastrami with extra Swiss cheese and dijon mustard offers a superior
alternative to an underwhelming pastrami sandwich scene in the Boston
suburbs. The Mrs. CS with honey maple ham, cheddar, dijon mustard and
lettuce takes on a mouthwatering presence. The opportunity to order
your own sandwich amongst 16 menu meats and seafood (and a vegetarian
option), 10 toppings, seven spreads, and eight cheeses creates diverse
possibilities. They also make a tremendous tuna melt and Italian, as
well as an incredible reuben! Of course, a successfully-made sandwich
begins with great bread, and Michael's pays close attention to that
crucial detail with several excellent varieties. The final product
always satisfies. You can't teach this stuff; Michael's innately
knows how to deliver the goods.
The deli section is
bustling. Julie -- a "deli technician", of sorts -- and other
friendly employees work the counter for take-out and eat-in customers.
Michael and Kathleen often handle the register, which serves as a great
way for them to get to know each and every customer.
On the dinner side, the pot roast and roast turkey dinners not only go
beyond the criteria of quality homemade meals, but come in at prices
that would cost twice the amount at many other local restaurants. The
daily specials are always worth checking out, too, with something for
the early riser at 5 a.m. to the early evening customer looking for a
meal to take home (Michael's closes at 7 p.m.).
Additionally, Michael's sells beer and wine to complement take-out
orders. The dessert selection is fabulous as their long-time
affiliation with The Pastry Box bakery in nearby Plainville, Mass.,
yields some phenomenal cakes, moonpies, turnovers, brownies and
cookies. Michael's contributes wonderfully to the baked goods
selections with its own freshly-made muffins.
For Lewicki, owning a deli turned out to a be a great decision. A
former excavator operator, Lewicki grew tired of driving a
truck and hauling gravel on a
front end loader. Lewicki loved working for his dad's business, but
knew he had a greater career calling.
When on the road, Lewicki was always interested in "finding the best
sandwiches" at roadside restaurants, diners and other dining spots.
From the inspirational grilled reuben at Au Bon Pain to the classic
Monte Christo at the local sandwich shop, Lewicki became an unofficial
purveyor of sandwiches.
Lewicki decided to open a deli the day after his 1989 marriage to Beth
(a speech pathologist in the Bellingham, Mass., Public Schools).
Eventually, the career dream came true and Michael's Deli and Cafe was
born. One morning when starting the business day, Lewicki witnessed a
beautiful sunrise across the street beyond the fields, and that is how
"Sunburst" became part of the Michael's Sunburst Deli and Cafe name.
Many years later, Michael's retains it bright, clean look and an
increasingly loyal following that loves the food and, just as
importantly, likes feeling welcomed.
"Making people feeling welcome
is part of our business," said Lewicki. "I believe that it is so
important to take an interest in people and remember their names."
On any given day, Michael, Kathleen and a well chosen, family-like
staff can be seen doing just that -- saying "hello" to people by name,
and the customers doing the very same thing in return. In a way, this
doesn't seem like the Boston suburbs, which can be sometimes rushed and
occasionally aloof. The look and feel of Michael's -- located in
between open fields, woods and lakes that seem more Vermont or Upstate
New York -- conjures up thoughts of those classic roadside
restaurants that we all happily come across while on vacation.
Everything just seems right at Michael's, and that's what Lewicki
intended when creating his business.
"My dad always said 'If you are going to do something you are
interested in, do it right,'" said Lewicki. "I knew I could
duplicate my favorite sandwiches. I could do even better, I thought."
Lewicki's business focus, combined with an extremely gracious and
pleasant personality, helps makes Michael's a truly special, good
old-fashioned sandwich shop -- and more -- that one could only hope
returns on a grander scale to the deli and cafe world. It might be
quite a wait for that retro culinary renaissance, so thank goodness for
places like Michael's that carries the proud tradition without ever
looking back.
Michael's Suburst Deli and Cafe is located at 305 Shears St., Wrentham
MA. Tel. (508) 384-1511. Web site: http://www.michaelsdeliandcafe.com
The Fave: Pastrami, Swiss Cheese, and
Dijon mustard on a braided sesame roll from Michael's.
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Books by VisitingNewEngland.com Publisher Eric Hurwitz
Massachusetts
Town Greens -- Discover New England's first travel attractions:
town commons.
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